In this short article I am going to outline a few simple ways to help you stop your puppy barking.
The first thing you should realize is that barking is your puppy's main form of communication. You will eventually learn his "bathroom bark" from him "bored bark" and his "hungry bark." When your puppy barks at you, do not immediately reprimand him. Stop and figure out what your puppy wants, since most dogs do not bark without good reason. When you determine the reason for your puppy's barking, fix the situation so he will stop. For example, if Fido needs water and gives you his "thirsty bark," go fill his water bowl. If he still insists on barking and has no other needs, give your command in a firm voice ("no" and "stop" are not acceptable commands "try" quiet "instead).
When your puppy stops barking, reward him with praise and a treat. If your puppy refuses to stop barking, try alternative measures, such as squirting him with water from a spray bottle. This will shock him and stop your puppy barking.
Do not forget to use your command and praise him once he stops barking. Another method is to use a tin can filled with pebbles, coins, or anything else that will elicit a loud sound. This sudden noise will startle your puppy and cause him to stop barking. It is not appropriate to yell or hit your puppy when he is barking. Remember, dogs bark for a reason. It is your responsibility as a dog owner to identify the reason why your puppy is barking and do your best to fix the situation. If you receive notice from your neighbors that you puppy barks all day while you are away, he is probably lonely or bored. Try arranging a way for you to come home on your break to play with him and take him outside or arrange a friend, family member, or pet service to visit your pup.
So remember, it is not difficult to stop your puppy barking at all. You just need a bit of time and TLC.
Long term this classic car industry of ours is in danger of dying out for a number of reasons. Firstly the youth of today do not generally think of cars from the 1950s, 60s and 70s as classics. They just think of them as old cars, much as I thought of pre-war cars as I was growing up. My own personal definition of a 'classic car' is the ones that were around when you were growing up and aspired to drive and own. Growing up in the 1960s and starting to drive in the 1970s that puts 60s and 70s cars squarely in my sights. Anyone growing up in the 1980s and 1990s will have a different mind-set.
Many classic car clubs are suffering from falling numbers as their membership is literally dying off and youngsters are not joining to fill the gaps. A few clubs are working to try and reverse the pattern. The TR Register (of which I am a member) have a 'Yoof Group' and at the NEC Classic Motor Show in November 2014 I was pleased to see the 'Young Members Register of the Morris Minor Owners Club'.
Fortunately Morris Minors, some Triumphs: Spitfires and TR7, and Classic Minis are still reliably cheap in classic car terms and make good starter classics. Once hooked, hopefully the owners will graduate to more expensive Triumphs and other more expensive marques. That is assuming they can get insurance as insurers are very biased again drivers from 17 to 25 (particularly male males) as they are liable for a disproportionate number of road accidents. According to an AA report in England 37% of drivers have had a crash by the age of 23!
I can not see the Jaguar Drivers' Club or Aston Martin Owners Club ever having a youth section for a number of reasons: primarily old age and prejudice of existing members but also the escalating costs of Jaguars and Astons and the insurance issue.
We do our bit to spread the word about classic cars and about 10% of our hire customers are doing a 'Try Before You Buy' – making sure the car of their choice lives up to their dreams – before going out to buy one. At the 2014 Classic Motor Show at the NEC we had 4 people come up to us on our stand and talk about the cars they had bought after hiring out one of our cars as a test. However even we can not fix the insurance issue as our own insurers have set a lower age limit of 25 for all our customers.
Assuming the clubs can can crack the 'Yoof' problem and encourage more people into our hobby this still leaves us with another problem which if we do not crack soon, will leave us with a huge problem in years to come.
If you want someone to program your home video or smart TV, you'll probably ask your kids to do it. If you want your website updated, or lessons on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, you head to the spotty youth or the 20-something guru. If you want your classic car fixing, you look for a silver haired mechanic who can tell what is wrong with your engine by listening to it and can balance twin or triple carbs by ear. Sadly by the nature of life itself these silver haired mechanisms are literally dying off with very little sign of school leavers coming into the industry to learn their skills and replace them.
Youngsters do not see manufacturing or serving cars as cool jobs and most of them do not have the patience to watch an entire TV program without looking at Facebook on their iPhones, let alone complete a 2 or 3 year apprenticeship in an industry they perceive as dirty and underpaid.
However we do now have some heavyweights looking at fixing this problem (in the UK at least). The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC) , which represents most UK clubs, has put together an approved apprenticeship training program in Historic Vehicle Restoration. The FBHVC believe there is a need to train 1,000 people over the next five years. There are two fairly local (30 miles way) organizations involved in this which should help – Bicester College and Bicester Heritage . I think it is Bicester Heritage that have the vision and drive to make some of this happen.
Anyone owning classic cars in the UK knows that the classic car movement owes a lot to Hitler, or rather to the RAF in their fight to defeat Hitler. Silverstone was a WWII airfield and its runways and perimeter road provided the ideal infra-structure to start racing after the war. The same goes for many other circuits around the country like Castle Coombe and Goodwood. Bicester used to have an RAF base, whose origins date back to 1916 and the fledgling Royal Flying Corps which morphed into the RAF in 1918. This great expansion in the 1930s and was used as a bomber base in WWII. The base is now augmented to the RAF's requirements and came onto the market for re-development. While part of the site is being used for housing, many of the 1930s buildings are 'listed' and not allowed to be demolished.
With incredible foresight a group of people have bought the 348 acre site, complete with runways and buildings. Their plan is to develop it as a center for the maintenance and restoration of classic aeroplanes, motorbikes and classic cars. This is a non-trivial task as first they had to restore many of the buildings to a state where they could be used, but keeping the 1930s 'listed' fabric and style of the buildings intact. The authenticity of the buildings can be attested to by their use in the film 'The Imitation Game' starring Benedict Cumberbatch as Alan Turing.
Bicester Heritage already houses the following:
Bicester Gliding Center
A shot blasting company – BMP Blasters – who can strip anything from the hangar doors to a Bugatti chassis.
A classic car storage company – Historit – occupying 50,000 square feet of a bomber hangar.
Kingsbury Racing Shop which specializes in racing and restoring four and a half liter Bentleys.
A young vehicle upholsterer who runs a 1910 Overland veteran car and is so well known that he does not need to advertise and has a waiting list of customers.
Robert Glover – selling pre-war cars and cars from the 1940s to 1960s.
As more buildings are re-furbished through 2015/16 more companies will join these at Bicester Heritage with 12 more tenants due before the end of the first quarter.
I think a combination of Bicester Heritage providing a base for a cluster of companies in our industry, together with Bicester College and the apprenticeship program from the FBHVC, are a beacon for the classic car industry. While I can not see 1,000 apprentices coming over the horizon, I can see a reasonable number of people learning new skills, working in a unique environment, learning a good living for the future from classic car owners with enough disposable income to make it all worthwhile.
On a less serious note, it is nice to know that even in the dark days of the 1930s, with Britain preparing for war, the RAF had a sense of humor. Being a military installation all the buildings have numbers with the offices for Bicester Heritage in the Guard House – building 89.
The planners decided that the toilet block should be building 100 !
Porn may have been the greatest thing you ever discovered when you were 12 and found a Playboy under your dad's bed, but can it be true that actually effecting you? Porn and Masturbation have had their time and place, but now I will give you reasons on why they need to go.
1. Porn / Masturbation drains your energy.
After you ejaculate, you lose many vitamins including vitamin C, calcium, chlorine, cholesterol, citric acid, creatine, fructose, lactic acid, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, vitamin B12, and zinc. When you masturbate frequently, it can deplete much of these sources and make you feel drained.
2. Giving up Porn / Masturbation can make you stronger.
When you are not regularly masturbating, the vitamins you retain in your body can give you a sense of strength and well-being.
3. Porn / Masturbation can lead to erectile dysfunction or premature ejaculation.
According to addiction. com, too much pornography can re-wire your body to react primarily to porn, so when you have a real partner in front of you, your body will not react how it is supposedly to.
4. Porn can make your brain desensitized to real sex.
As stated in the previous example, porn can confuse your brain and cause you to not enjoy real sex as much.
5. Porn / Masturbation can kill your motivation.
Too much porn / masturbation can lead to feelings of tiredness and lack of motivation. When addicted to pornography and ejaculation, it sometimes kills motivation to go out and strive for things you really desire.
6. Porn / Masturbation can get you addicted to "instant gratification".
Porn / Masturbation, like many other habits in life, are a form of instant gratification. If you build the habit of frequent porn / masturbation, you are 3x more likely to eat unhealthy and stay up later binge watching television, which can all lead to being very unhealthy habits.
7. Porn / Masturbation can take away from other amazing experiences.
Porn and Masturbation can leave you thinking about sex all the time, even at unwanted times. Instead of enjoying a sunset or having an enjoyable dinner, your mind can be flooded with sexual thoughts, rendering you unable to fully enjoy the moment you are trying to experience.
8. Porn / Masturbation can make you creepy.
With so many varieties of porn out nowdays, porn viewers are subject to watching things that would never usually happen in healthy sexual encounters. When you view material like this it gets subconsciously planted in your brain, and you think of it through the day. When you think about sex so much, it can affect how you interact and may even make you look creepy.
9. Porn / Masturbation can make you look lifeless.
As per reports from a group of individuals who decided to quit pornography and masturbation over at reddit.com/r/nofap, users report when quitting porn / masturbation they are not more color in their eyes, dark spots around their eyes disappearing, more color in their skin, and even the reduction / elimination of acne.
10. Porn / Masturbation lowers your testosterone.
According to an article at examine. com testosterone levels were higher when abstinent for 3 weeks compared to ejaculating regularly.
11. Giving up porn / masturbation can give you boosts of energy.
Anyone seeking because they have no energy, but can not seem to find a cure – try being abstinent for a month. People who abstain report significantly higher levels of energy when giving up porn / masturbation.
12. Giving up porn / masturbation can get you a girlfriend / boyfriend.
If you decide not to ejaculate from porn / masturbation, your body will start seeking out other ways to satisfies it's desire, either through wet dreams or seeking out a mutual partner. People who give up porn / masturbation report the opposite sex noticing them more.
13. Giving up porn / masturbation can make you more productive.
With the newfound energy from quitting, people have reported using their time to pursue more productive ventures.
14. Giving up porn / masturbation can save your marriage.
If you are married and decided to give up porn and masturbation, throwing away other sources of sexual pleasure usually lead to giving more attention to your significant other. Users on reddit.com/r/nofap have reported quitting porn / masturbation to have "saved their marriage".
15. Giving up porn / masturbation can make you more self-disciplined.
Quitting this habit takes self-control, and when you quit you may notice yourself having self-discipline in other areas as well.
16. Giving up porn / masturbation can make you different from every other guy / girl.
They say around 95% of men masturbate regularly, and when you quit, it may give you a mental and physical "edge" over other men or women.
17. Porn / Masturbation can give you social anxiety / depression.
Abstainers have reported after quitting porn / masturbation their social anxiety and / or depression was greatly reduced or vanished. The science behind this is unclear, but it may be from unconscious social fears of feeling like you are hiding something.
18. Giving up porn / masturbation frees up your time.
When you give up porn / masturbation, you will have more free time to pursue other ventures.
19. Giving up porn / Masturbation can make you feel better spiritually (if you're into that)
In many religions, sexual immorality or pornography is viewed as a sin, and quitting them will lead you to feeling closer to your spiritual goals.
20. Porn / Masturbation can give you an unrealistic view of how women want to be treated.
Many times pornography consumption starts at an early age, and before learning how to truly interact with other women, they are rather being trained by pornography videos where the women are clearly mistreated. Kids can grow up believing that women should be treated like sex objects instead of people.
21. Quitting Porn / Masturbation has led to feelings of wholeness.
Abstainers report feeling more whole as a person when quitting porn / masturbation.
22. Quitting Porn / Masturbation can improve your sex life.
After quitting porn / masturbation, your sex life may improve from you being more present with your significant other.
23. Quitting Porn / Masturbation can make you more likable.
People that have quit porn / masturbation report being more sociable and having others come and socialize with them more often then when they were using porn / masturbation.
24. Quitting Porn / Masturbation can give you more confidence.
Without the feeling of hiding anything sexually and the build-up of extra protein / vitamins in your body, people have reported feeling more confident after quitting porn and masturbation.
25. Quitting Porn / Masturbation can make you feel more.
Others that have quit porn / masturbation report feeling more emotions after quitting.
26. Porn / Masturbation can mess with your reward circuitry.
Porn and Masturbation can mess with your reward circuitry, teaching your brain that sex is just a mouse-click away.
These are just a few of the effects of porn / masturbation.
Bringing home a new cat to provide your kitty with some companionship and a playmate may seem to be a very good idea, but it can be fraught with difficulties. The older (or original cat) may be very resentful of this new interloper, invading his territory and will defend it. The result can be vicious cat fights, which, if one of the cats is younger, smaller or more vulnerable can end up in a trip to the vets or worse! However, it does not have to be like this. By taking a few precautionary steps, you can keep accommodations to a minimum. It is only natural that there may be some initial hissing and growing, but you do not want any resentment to progress further than that. The key to success lies in the slow introduction of the new cat. Give them time to get to know one another by using the following steps:
Rub the cats down with the same towel to transfer their scents to each other.
Make the cats smell similar by rubbing powder into their fur.
Put the new cat in a bathroom or bedroom for a few days away from the older cat. Feed the older cat by the door of the new kitty's room so that the two cats can smell each other and basically eat side by side but with a door separating them!
Take some time to put the older cat into the new cat's room and allow the new arrival out to explore the rest of its new home in safety. This gives her a chance to find a hiding place if she wants and to learn the smell of the older cat. The older cat meanwhile will be becoming accustomed to the new cat's smell, too. Then return the animals to their original places, leaving the door slightly open for a few hours so the cats can see each other. Repeat this process over the next few days.
This gentle, slow introduction should help prevent a face to face cat fight. There may still be romps and occasional actions of aggression but by introducing them to each other slowly, they should learn to tolerate each other and cohabit peacefully.
Potty training your puppy can be a trying battle at times. It is much easier to accomplish when you have some dog potty training tips to follow. We want your puppy toilet training to be as painless, yet as effective as possible. This all becomes part of your general puppy training routine. Repetition is the key to achieving this, but patience is definitely needed as well.
You may need to spend some time setting the stage for this routine task. Potty training puppy should begin from the time you bring him home. Remember that a puppy aged 8 weeks old will need to eliminate more frequently than an older dog. If you can not be with your puppy during certain hours due to work or school, the purchase of a crate for your dog should be first priority.
As a rule dogs will not eliminate in their living space and they will learn to wait until they can get out of the crate. It need only be large enough to allow your dog to turn around and lie down. If the breed of puppy you have chosen is one that will grow to be considerably larger as an adult, you may want to consider buying the large crate now and modifying it with heavy cardboard or a well sanded piece of plywood or press wood that you can adjust when your puppy needs more room to move.
Become aware of a few details relating to your puppy's behavior that could indicate the need to go outside such circling or sniffing the floor. It is also a good idea to have any needed items ready ahead of time to avoid a state of confusion when it's time to take your puppy outside for another potty break.
This is a good time to use positive reinforcement and clicker training. When you are potty training your puppy and they associate the command with the required action, make the click and offer the reward or praise. You want to make sure you have treasures and your clicker on hand before opening that crate door.
The area you want your puppy to use for eliminating should be confined to one particular place in the yard. By using the same location each time you have a potty training puppy session, he will quickly make the connection between that location and what needs to be done there. You can also use a verbal command or phrase each time your dog goes outside. By simply saying "go potty" every time you are working on puppy toilet training you puppy will associate those words with the action expected of him. Soon enough you'll be able to open the door to your yard, say the word and watch your puppy follow the command.
The first time of the day it is important to practice puppy toilet training is when puppy first wakes up. It is an essential time since they have been crated overnight so not only do they have the need to potty, but also get a bit of exercise and stretching done. Another occasion for you to practice potty training your puppy is to take them out right before bedtime for their last potty and exercise occasion of the evening. Make sure that you continuously praise your puppy each time they correctly achieve a command. The praise they receive will be a trigger for them to willingly repeat the action.
Another puppy potty training tip is following a predetermined schedule for feeding so you will learn to graduate when your puppy needs to go outside. Usually it will take somewhere between 30-45 minutes after eating for your puppy or dog to need to go outside. By keeping track of times between eating / drinking and eliminating you will soon have a good idea how long to wait until it's time to go outside.
Do not scold your puppy if they have made a mess in the house without you catching him in the act. If you do see your puppy squatting to tie himself himself, it is perfectly fine to say "No" or some other predetermined word, scoop him up and bring him directly to the outdoor potty area. He will soon understand that it is not acceptable to do his 'business' anywhere but the assigned location.
Potty training your puppy requires planning and a bit of patience and consistency. When your puppy knows what is expected of them and you're able to be consistent with your requests and your rewards they will quickly catch on. Potty training does not need to take months, follow these basic dog potty training tips and your puppy can be trained in no time.
This one's for all us cat owners living in fear for our sofas and carpets! Does your kitty like to scratch your furniture?
Its a common problem with lots of cats, especially 'flat cats' (not literally!) I mean of course kittys who live in apartments with very little outdoor exercise.
Why do they do it? Not as people commonly think to sharpen their claws, but to exercise, clean and keep them healthy. Cats that have lots of outdoor exercise will often use your fruit trees – which can cause major damage to the tree trunk, indoor cats will use any suitable surface – your sofa, carpet, wallpaper etc. etc.
The thing with cats is that they're creatures of habit and they 'bond' with certain surfaces or items for their 'personal hygiene' (I'll be writing about toilet training soon!). So to save your trees, soft furnishings and sanity, the trick is to get them to bond with something more suitable and take action to protect your home.
Okay so a two-pronged solution:
Save your furniture – apart from shutting your cat out of the house (no chance), declawing (illegal and very painful for the poor cat), what else can you do? There's a couple of things that spring to mind
Furniture protectors – clear plastic strips that attach to the furniture. They provide a smooth surface so kitty's claws slide off, helping to break the claw habit.
Claw Scissors – these are a small pair of clippers suitable for indoor cats, rabbits and so on. Clipping the ends of your cat's claws regularly will not worry kitty and will help save the carpets from those claws hooking in. Not always such a good idea for outdoor cats as they use their claws for climbing and defense.
Provide 'bonding' material for your cat with Sisal scratching posts, pads and climbers. Sisal is a tough material that can withstanding constant clawing and provides the type of surface that cats like to use for their grooming. They're often impregnated with catnip and come with toys attached to encourage your cat to use them.
If all else fails, pop down to your vet surgery – many run clinics where the nurses give advice on all sorts of subjects.
Small dogs or lap dogs or comforters as they were once called have a very extensive history, encompassing several thousand years. Small breeds were often kept by nobility and given as presents to royal figures. It was also thought that small breeds were good for ones health. The Pekingees, pug and King Charles Cavalier Spaniel are three examples.
Many dog owners have a preference for small dogs over larger breeds, and for many different reasons. However, by virtue of their diminutive size, these dogs are much more affordable to keep, need less exercise in relation to larger breeds in general, and are simple to transport for example.
Many owners of larger dogs, and often those thinking of caring for a new dogs avoid smaller breeds, because of the perceived differences in their behaviour, in relation to larger dogs. It is thought, and wrongly of course, that smaller dogs are by nature, yappy, aggressive, possessive, over protective and demanding,, and so on.
If this assumption is not true, then why do so many small dog owners experience problems with their dogs behaving aggressively towards other dogs and humans and displaying possessive and demanding behaviours etc?
To get an understanding of the problem, we need to begin at the beginning. All puppies are cute and adorable, even the largest breed was small and cuddly at one time. However, the small breeds tend to retain their puppy looks and size, long after the cute Rottweiler puppy has grown and gained 50 Kg in weight, for instance
Researchers have found that humans have developed a biological response to ‘cute’ things, especially baby animals. It is thought the need to nurture and protect, perceived defenceless creatures is automatic.
This is where problems often begin; the owner over protects the dog, may carry him round, let him sleep on the bed or jump on the furniture when he chooses, and picks him up in the presence strange dogs, and gives in to his demands for attention. This is often done through the misguided notion that the dog needs protecting, by virtue of his size and ‘baby like’ qualities.
So how is this all worked out in the dogs mind? Although our domestic dogs are very different in many ways to his ancestor, the wolf, he has inherited much of his ancestors instinctual behaviours. A part of this instinctual blue print,comes the desire to be part of a group or pack. Although most dogs are more than happy to be the follower in their human pack, if their is no obvious leader, or the dog is getting signals from his owner that he is the leader of the pack, then the dog will have no option but to fill the role, as this is how life is played out in the dogs world.
Over time, the dog may show behaviours that to the experienced eye would be considered dominant, however, to the dogs owner these behaviours are seen as either breed specific, for example, ‘that’s how Chihuahuas’s are’, or part and parcel of the dogs personality, eg ‘he’s always been this way’. This kind of behaviour would be a cause for concern if seen in a larger dog, but somehow overlooked, or not considered serious in many smaller breeds.
There are a number of behaviours that are common to small dogs acting dominantly, so much so, that this type of behaviour observed in smaller breeds, has inherited the label ‘small dog syndrome’ or ‘little dog syndrome’. Some of the common behaviours that characterise ‘small dog syndrome’ are listed below.
Your dog has developed the habit of sitting on you, or jumping on you, or next to you, when he pleases.
Your dog does not allow you near him when he is eating or has a toy he is playing with
Your barks excessively to get your attention.
Your dog is over protective when other dogs or humans come near you.
Your dog growls when you attempt to move him from his favourite resting place.
Your dog is generally stubborn and refuses to follow commands given to him.
Your dog displays an exaggerated reaction to being left alone, characterised by constant barking, or destructive behaviour.
Much can be done to turn this problem around, however, owners must first consider the role they play in encouraging this type of behaviour in their dogs. Owners must come to realise that their small breed dogs are in fact animals and not little humans.
Secondly, owners must understand that it is natural for dogs to be a part of a ‘pack’ and more importantly, a pack in which they would much prefer to be a follower, than a leader. Understanding these two concepts alone, will help greatlyreduce the problem.
In terms of retraining, owners must communicate to their dogs that they are the leader, provider, and protector of the team. This can be done by controlling all of the dogs resources, for example, food, toys, treats, walks, and favourite places of rest, and allowing the dog access to them when the owner decides.
All demanding behaviour, for example barking for treats or to be picked up and so on, should be ignored, and all appropriate behaviour praised.
Aggressive and possessive behaviour towards other humans by the dog can be dealt with by having a place for the dog to go to when the owner is interacting with others. This may be to his crate, or a cushion in the corner of the room for example.
Owners should be aware that retraining takes time, especially in the case of dogs who have been allowed to display this kind of behaviour for a long time. With patience and repetition however, the dog will be content to become a follower, rather than the leader, of his human pack.
Both cats and people can be allergic to cat litter. However, this allergy is often overlooked and misdiagnosed. If you have had persistent allergy symptoms and have been unable to identify a cause, then consider the possibility that you may be allergic to the litter that your cat is using. Fortunately, if this is the case, the issue is easy to treat.
Symptoms to cat litter allergies is the same as any other allergies. You can be sneezing, have a running nose and red itchy eyes. The same goes for your cat. One thing for sure is that these symptoms tend to get worse whenever you are around your kitty’s litter or your cat as it may be having some of the litter on its body. If that is so, then chances are, you are allergic to the kitty litter that you are using and not other allergies.
By far, the most common types of irritants found in itters are clay-based and silica dust. Make sure these are not found within the kitty litter you are currently using by checking the labels on the litterbags. If so, simply switch to another and you would likely see an immediate improvement in your symptoms.
However, there are people who are allergic even to non-dusty cat litter and if so, then avoid getting too close to the litter boxes in your house. Isolate the little box in a confined area where you would less likely be going. Also as cats is likely to have some cat litter dust on their body, it’s best that you avoid rubbing your nose against its fur or shower your cat more often to keep him free from litter dust as much as possible.
Having your cat urinating all over your home can be extremely troublesome. Especially when it happens after you thought you had successfully litter trained your cat. Rather than getting angry, it may be more appropriate for you to be worried. You should strongly consider taking kitty for a check-up at the vet. There are a number of diseases which can cause your cat to suddenly start urinating uncontrollably. One of these diseases is a urinary tract infection which could be potentially fatal if left untreated. As a matter of fact, any sudden change in kitty’s behavior merits a visit to the vet, just in case.
While kitty peeing outside the litter box is an obvious clue, you should also be on alert about your cat’s urination habits. If you notice kitty making more trips to the litter box than normal, or releasing a greater than usual volume of urine, or its urine having a different smell, etc, all these are warning signs of illness. If you truly love your cat, then you need to be vigilant about its health.
Once ill health has been ruled out, you need to look into environmental factors. The most obvious one is moving house. There are one or two cat owners who somehow failed to realize that their cats became confused and could not find the litter box in their new homes. Or simply did not like the new location of the litter box. In any case, if you move house, be prepared to litter train your cat all over again.
Any number of factors could cause stress to your cat and cause it to urinate away from its litter box, even something as subtle as a change in your working schedule. On the one hand, this is rather inconvenient to you. On the other hand, a part of me would be happy, because this shows that kitty misses me and cares about me. It’s nice to know that you are more than just the person who fills kitty’s food dish, isn’t it? Anyway, if you cannot remove the cause of kitty’s stress, you will just have to toilet train your cat again. Besides this, you may want to learn cat massage. Just like for humans, massage can soothe away some of your cat’s stress. If all else fails, you may need to get a something from your vet to help soothe kitty. However, I strongly advise against aromatherapy or the use of massage oils unless your vet can recommend a safe brand. Cats are often sensitive to such oils and scents. There have been cases of poisoning reported.
Something that few people think about is the litter. Just because you still buy the same brand does not mean the manufacturer is still making the litter exactly the same. There could be major or even just minor changes to the final end product, and it could be noticeable to your cat. Remember that its sense of touch and smell is much better than yours.
The problem could even be the litter box. Are your cat still using the same litter box as when it was a kitten? Or has your cat grown old… You may need to try a different-sized litter box.
Did I mention that smell is important? Did you change the cleaner you used to wash the litter box? Are you cleaning the area around the litter box with a different cleaner? Perhaps kitty hates the smell of the new cleaning product and that is why it is urinating elsewhere. Or did you use a different cleaning product for your house. The new cleaner could be confusing kitty.
Your cat is a sensitive creature of habit. First, you need to eliminate health problems as the cause of your cat’s urination problem. After that, it takes time and patience and loving care to investigate the cause of the problem. A case study published by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (JAVMA, Vol 224, No. 10, May 15, 2004) reported that they took several years to resolve the problem. Partly it was because the cat in question had health problems. The vet needed to try different medications which would both clear up the medical conditions as well as not cause the cat to urinate uncontrollably. At the same time, there was no stability in the home environment. The owner got a divorce, and found a new boyfriend. And apparently some stray cats moved into the neighborhood.
Do you have a cat that sprays outside the litter box? If yes, then you have smelled the horrible odor and experienced frustration when attempting to get your cat to stop spraying. To resolve the problem, you must first figure out what is motivating your cat to spray.
Territorial marking is the number one reason why cats spray. Felines are compelled to let others of their kind know that they are around. They may also spray when they are looking for a mate. If you have another cat in your home that fights with the culprit kitty, the spraying may be done to show aggression. Cats hanging around outside of your house can also cause your cat to spray. A move to a new home, the arrival of a new child, or other upsets to the cat’s daily routines can cause the behavior. A cat that is under any kind of stress such as living in a noisy household can also resort to spraying.
Generally, male cats are the prime spraying offenders. But, some females will also spray, especially if they are in heat. The unique smell of spray is due to chemicals in the anal glands that are expressed along with a small amount of urine.
If your cat has not been neutered or spayed, doing so is likely to solve the problem. But, some altered cats will still spray. For the best results, the surgery should be performed before the age of six months.
One thing that you should not try is punishing your cat. Kitties do not understand the relationship between behaviors and punishment, and the stress may cause your cat to spray even more.
Regular cleaning and scooping of the litter box is important as some cats will spray as a form of protest against poor litter box maintenance. Keep routines consistent including bed time, play time, and feeding. When your cat sprays, be sure to clean the area with enzyme cleaner so that no odor remains. Otherwise, the cat may return to the same spot to spray again.
After trying measures to curb spraying, take your cat to a veterinarian. Bladder infections and other health issues can lead to the behavior. Drugs for anxiety such as Prozac can also be prescribed, since your cat could be anxious even if you are not aware of it.
For fighting cats, put them in separate parts of your home if possible. Unfortunately, sometimes the best choice is to give the spraying cat to a new owner. Neither cat will be happy if they are constantly picking fights. Especially if no other cats live in the new home, the cat may stop the behavior.
Another option if the spraying appears to be over territory is to confine the cat to a small area of your house. The feline will not have as large of an area to defend, and may decide to stop spraying. At least the number of messes to clean should be lessened.
Cat behaviorists analyze cat behavior and develop plans to change unacceptable actions like spraying to more desirable behaviors like using the litter box. They can be successful in working with you and your cat to develop better behaviors.