Flying Remote Control Planes (Part III)

Flying Remote Control Planes (Part III)

Welcome back to part 3 of this series. Part 1 covered location and pre-flight check lists. Part 2 covered Resources to help you. This article will focus on the next step of learning to fly.

You have an established location and your plane and controls have checked out, and hopefully you have developed a relationship with an individual that can be your coach and keep you from crashing. So what is next? Your instructor may override what I am about to present but encourage them to allow you this experience as it is vital to proceeding to the next step.

Touch-and-Go Landings : Flying a remote controlled plane is very much like flying a real aircraft. The basic concepts apply. One of the first things (after flight school which you have not benefited from) is to practice Touch-and-Go Landing. This involves a maneuver that is common when learning to fly. It involves landing on a runway and taking off again without coming to a full stop. This is important because it gives you the confidence as well as experience to be sure that you are proficient with your air craft as well as proving out all the controls.

This process involves powering down the runway and slowly lifting off the ground. Remember that you must use the trim controls to ensure you plane is not drifting. Correct any issues here first by adjusting your trim or actual linkage. Also remember that if you are at full power (which is not needed for take-off) you may overpower the ability to land softly.

There is another technique known as Stop-and-Go where you lift off, then land and stop your plane. I recommend this approach in the beginning. You will move on to the Touch-and-Go next depending on the length of your runway. Power your plane down the runway and gently bring yourself to a flight mode no more than 4 feet off the ground. Power back on the throttle and gently adjust your aileron and rudder to put yourself in a landing position. Remember that flying the plane is the easy part, the hardest part is landing. This will give you experience that you will need when you come in for a real landing. You need to know the control sensitivity and this exercise will allow you to obtain this touch and relate your plane and controller together. There are always 2 devices that you have to balance. Do not over drive the servos of your plane … Gentle adjustments are the best way to become familiar with your controller and the response of the plane. Hard over adjustments of the controls are the best way to crash. Ensure you have a runway long enough to allow you some margin. If you do not, then you will most likely have to react to a difficult landing. You would be better off in this situation to climb and come back in for another chance.

Back to Touch-and-Go … Some resources that you may use may suggest that this is a step that is not needed; Instructors who favor the use of Touch-and-Go and Touch-and-stop offer the possibility for you to practice more landings per session. Remember, you can do whatever you want in the air but if you can not land without damaging your plane then you will end up buying a new plane. (Hopefully from Us)

Part IV in the series will focus on Flight (keep it simple).

Good luck (skill) to you and expect more to follow on this subject.

Source by O. Carl Peterson

Mercedes 126 Repair – Forgotten Fluids, Part III

Mercedes 126 Repair – Forgotten Fluids, Part III

The subject of this article, brake fluid, is not as sorely neglected as differential gear oil or power steering fluid. Brakes will eventually command the attention of even the most inattentive owner. But we should be paying attention to our brake system long before it screams at us.

Mercedes is one of the few car manufacturers to prescribe a service interval for brake fluid – two years. And there are very good reasons for this. First, brake fluid is highly hygroscopic, readily absorbing water vapor from the atmosphere. If you leave a container of brake fluid open overnight, it will be fatally compromised by the next day. Water in the fluid can boil and vaporize when the brakes are applied, preventing the transmission of pressure from the master cylinder to the caliper. The seriousness of that safety hazard need not be stated. Water also causes corrosion within the brake system. Finally, the fluid within the caliper is subjected to very high temperatures and degrades over time. The fluid in the reservoir might look alright, but there is no recirculation of fluid in this system to provide a visual cue to intervene.

If you live in a humid climate, Mercedes' prescription may actually not be strong enough. It may be necessary to change the fluid every year . And it is best to do this in the driest part of the year. For most people, the job is best done in the spring, but in swampy Central Florida, for example, the best time to work on brakes is the winter, which is the dry season. Regardless, regular work on the brakes provides more opportunities to inspect the condition of the pads, rotors, and flexible brake lines. The opening and closing of the bleeder screws precedes them from becoming frozen in place by rust. And your caliper seals with love you for it.

While some still swear by the traditional, two-man brake-bleeding procedure, power bleeders are wonderfully effective and make brake bleeding a simple, one-man operation. Power bleeders eliminate the need to constantly monitor the fluid level in the reservoir, thereby reducing the risk of air entering the system and requiring us to start all over again. And they have been demonstrated to reduce the risk of damage to the master cylinder during traditional bleeding.

The standard advice to start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder holds true. In fact, that right rear caliper looks to be by far the hardest to bleed completely. It is imperative to keep going until the fluid leaving the caliper is completely clean and free of bubbles . A small amount of Teflon tape wrapped around the threads of the bleeder screw can safeguard against any tension for false air to be sucked at that point. While such air does not remain in the caliper to cause operational problems, it does make it difficult to tell when the brakes have been bled successfully.

DOT 4 fluid should be used in Mercedes brake systems. If all you can get is DOT 3, that is not the end of the world: it will not harm the system in any way; it simply has a lower boiling point. Whatever you do, do not use DOT 5 brake fluid; This is designed solely for racing applications and does not belong in road vehicles.

Source by Richard M Foster