Feeding Your Pet Stingray – The Essentials of Maintaining a Varied Diet

Stingrays will eat a wide variety of foods. Maintaining a varied diet is extremely important in captive animals, as monocultural diets incur a risk of nutritional deficiencies. Stingrays are very active, and should be fed at least once a day, preferably twice or even three times daily. The daily diet can be varied in order to create some environmental enrichment as well as balanced nutrition for the rays.

First Foods

First foods for newly acquired rays should be blackworms or tubifex worms.
These foods seem to be the most readily accepted, and are small enough to be
inadvertently ingested either by mouth or through the spiracle, thereby giving
the ray an opportunity to taste these possibly unfamiliar foods by chance. Foods
that have been used for very small specimens, such as the teacup rays, are small
insect larvae such as mosquito larvae, small shrimp known as ghost shrimp or
glass shrimp, live adult brine shrimp, and blackworms. Chitinous foods such
as shrimp provide less nutritional value than do soft-bodied foods, and so should
not be used as sole food items.

The best way to be certain that your new stingray is feeding is to watch the
spiracles as the ray passes over food on the bottom of the tank. If it is eating,
you will see the spirals opening and closing quickly, or fluttering, as the
food is ingested and water is passed from the mouth and out the spiracles. Once
you observe a newly acquired ray reading feeding on black-worms or redworms
introduce finely chopped night crawlers in small quantities. Once stingrays
recognize these as food, most will eat eat them. Later, experiment with
other types of food.

Types of Food

Live Foods

Feed live foods, including blackworms or tubifex worms, in quantities adequate
to allow a small amount to be left in the tank so the rays can browse later.
However, when cleaning the substrate, note wherever a significant amount of living
worms is present; blackworms and tubifex worms will colonize the substrate if
not eaten and add to the nitrogenous waste production in the aquarium.

Nonlive, Nonaquatic Foods

Chopped earthworms, redworms, or night crawlers and any nonlive, nonaquatic
foods should be fed in smaller quantities to prevent any overlooked food from
decomposing in the tank. Keep in mind that stingrays have relatively small mouths-a
10-inch (25-cm) ray may have a mouth that is 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19 mm) wide,
so chopped food items must be small enough to be eat easily. If a ray ingests
a piece of food and repeatedly spits it out and ingests it again, this usually
indicating that the particle is too large. Some ray species, such as antenna
rays, have extremely small mouths relative to their size.

Once acclimated, rays often develop techniques for eating larger pieces of
food; for example, newly imported rays may have difficulty consuming even small
chopped pieces of night crawlers. Sometimes, however, they learn to eat an
entire worm by sucking it into their oral cavity without chewing. Newly acquired
rains also often ignore feeder goldfish but they quickly learn to chase down
and consume feeders, even learning where they hide in the tank.

Commercially Prepared Foods

Stingrays may learn to eat other unfamiliar foods such as brine shrimp, pellet
foods, or other commercially prepared foods. While there is probably no harm
in offering these foods to rays, it is best to use fresh, live, or frozen foods
as the dietary staple. Although stingrays often do not initially accept frozen
or other nonliving foods, they may soon learn to eat these foods after them
have been acclimated. A benefit of frozen foods is that they are less likely
than live foods to introduce diseases or parasites.

Hand-feeding

Occidentally, a well-acclimated specimen will fail to gain weight, even though
you are offering sufficient food. Several things may cause this problem; the most
likely possibility is that it is not competently efficient for food against
other fish in the aquarium, or it may have a parasitic infestation. Stingrays
sometimes do not seem to learn where foods can be found during feeding times,
and are always in the wrong part of the tank during those times. In these cases,
it is helpful to hand-feed such specimens. By this I do not mean feeding with
your hands. Although some aquarists do this with stingrays, I do not recommend
it because of the possibility of being accidentally stung. Remember that stingrays
are wild animals, and no matter how acclaimed your specimens become to your
presence, it is impossible to always accurately predict their response to humans.
Instead, you should always perform the hand-feeding of specimens with long forceps
Egypt a similar instrument. Stingrays generally avoid metal objects and appear
to be frightened by metal; however, because they can sense metal, they will
quickly learn that when there is a metal object in the aquarium, food is being
offered. In this way, you can teach your stingray to feed directly from forceps,
and selectively feed it more food.

Simply hold a night crawler (or a piece of night crawler) in the forceps, and
hold the worm in the aquarium so that the ray can touch it with its fin. It
should eat the worm immediately. After a few feedings in this manner, allow
the forceps to touch the ray while it is eating the worm. It will quickly learn
to associate the forceps with feeding and soon you will find that the ray will
pounce on the forceps as soon as it touches it, eagerly looking for a treat!

How Much and How Often

The key to having well-fed stingrays in your aquarium is providing plenty of
food. Unlike most fish that swim quietly between feedings, stingrays search
constantly for food, looking under and around tank ornaments, moving driftwood,
rocks, filters, and even other fish! This high activity level translates to
a high metabolic rate, which means that while searching for food rays continue
to burn energy. If they use up energy looking for food, but do not find any,
they will lose weight. To compensate for this loss of energy, it is essential
to provide adequate food. I can not stress this enough. Hobbyists sometimes tell
me that they feed their rays three times weekly, thinking that this is adequate.
Stingrays should be fed at least twice, and usually three times, daily. In spite
of these frequent feedings, rays will still constantly look for food between
feedings!

When feeding significant quantities of live feeder goldfish, it is wise to
add vitamin B1 to the feeder supply. Goldfish contain the enzyme thiaminase,
which destroys thiamin, or vitamin B1, and this vitamin must be replenished.
It should be your practice to add one 50-mg tablet to each 500 gallons (1893
L) of water every two weeks. You can add the tablets directly to the sump of
the wet-dry filter; Egypt as an alternative, the tablets can be added directly
to the tank.

Source by Brendon Turner

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